Archive for the 'Repair and Maintenance Tips' Category

How to Replace Washing Machine Inlet Valve

There’s another great repair article over at acmehowto.com about replacing the inlet valve on your washing machine.

Of course, never attempt such a repair yourself without following all safety precautions, like unplugging the washer.

First it discusses what exactly an inlet valve is, and what can happen if the valve is blocked or if its solenoid isn’t functioning.

It discusses how to identify it, where on the washing machine to find it, and how to disconnect it.  It gives advice on the hoses, the terminals, and the wiring.  Once the valve is off, it tells you how to connect the new one and make sure it’s working properly.

If you need to replace your washing machine’s inlet valve, read this article.

How to Test Dishwasher Drain Valve

If your dishwasher motor only has two or three wires, it is a single-direction motor, which means the dishwasher has a drain valve.  If the motor has four wires, it is a reversing motor and the the machine doesn’t have a drain valve.

So, provided you have a drain valve to test, here are the basics, thanks to this article from acmehowto.com:

First, you need to follow all safety procedures.  For example, make sure the machine is unplugged.

Remove the lower panel underneath the dishwasher door (it’s usually held in place by a couple of screws).  Most of the time, the drain valve will be close to the motor.  Simply locate the motor and look for a hose coming out of the motor.  The hose should lead to the drain valve.  The valve is essentially two parts: the gate arm and the solenoid.  The gate arm should move up and down smoothly.  Check the springs on the gate arm–if they’re damaged in any way, replace them.

The solenoid will have two wires connected to it.  Check the terminals and the wire connections for corrosion.  Replace any corroded part.  Use a multitester to test the solenoid for resistance.  With the multitester on the X1 setting, touch the probes to each terminal.  The solenoid should read about 40 ohms.  If there is no reading or if it’s nowhere close to 40 ohms, replace the solenoid.

That’s it!

How to Clean Freezer Condenser Coils

It’s necessary to clean the condenser coils on your refrigerator/freezer.  The coils are designed to expel the heat drawn out of the freezer compartment.  If they accumulate too much dust, they may not cool enough to keep the freezer working properly.

We found an easy article on the subject, this time over at acmehowto.com.

The article discusses both locations that the coils are found on freezers, either on the back of the unit or on the bottom.

Check out the article, and enjoy cleaning your freezer condenser coils!  In the meantime, we’ll be sharing some more articles from this site in the near future.

Oven Repair Made Easy

I wanted to let you know about a useful article when you need to look into repairing your oven on your own.  Whether you have an electric or gas oven, this article covers all the basics you need to know for oven maintenance and repair.

The article covers door gaskets, burners, disassembling the range, repairing the oven setting control, replacing the timer, checking pilot lights, shutoff valves, and more.

Read the article here and have fun with your oven!

Preparing your Furnace for Winter

Winter is almost upon us, so now is the time to check your furnace to make sure it is in prime condition. It isn’t easy to dial a repairman on the phone when you are shivering from the cold.

Before you begin, flip the breaker for your furnace in your home’s electrical panel to avoid the risk of electric shock. Also, make sure the gas valve is turned off.

First, take a vacuum (with a pole attachment) and clean all the relevant sections of your heating system: The main compartment of the furnace, the blower blades, the air intake vents.

Second, check the fan belt. If there are signs of wear and tear, replace it.

Next, replace the filter. In fact, it would be best to buy extras and replace the filter once every month or two during the winter months to avoid dust buildup.

The fourth step is to inspect the sheet metal duct system for possible damage. The various temperatures of the air pushed through the ducts throughout the year inevitably make the metal expand or contract. Duct tape is the obvious choice to fill in any cracks.

Finally, flip the breaker back on, turn the gas valve back on, relight the pilot (if necessary), and adjust the thermostat temperature to test the system.  If everything is in order, you are ready for the winter!